Parkinsons Arrive - Day 3

I was up at 5:30 ready to shower, but when I turned the spigot, the water only dripped out.  I decided to take my chances and lathered up my hair.  And the water stopped.  I waited impatiently knowing most everyone else was asleep.  I ventured out in my towel when I saw Lisa and my mom awake at 6:00 and had them ask about the water.  10 minutes they were told.  If only.  By 6:30 I relented and used a filled water bottle to rinse off.  Apparently someone had left the water on the night before and entirely drained the system.  

After an early breakfast we started our next adventure at 7:30. We took the canoes with us so we could spend the morning in the seasonally flooded forest.  It felt other worldly as we glided silently through the dimly lit forest.  We enjoyed the cool and calm of the other-worldly Varzea Forest.  The dank air held a hint of rot.  A white-faced tree rat (known locally as a jungle guinea pig) peered out at us from a tree hollow.  Our guides repeated the Giant River Otter’s cry and cough with amazing skill but to no avail.  Though the water was only a few feet deep, we pushed deeper and deeper into the forest, what felt like a mile or more from the main river.  We canoed through the forest until we reached terra firma where we got out and walked on clearly marked trails for an hour while our guides taught us about the many different uses for the native plants from a vine that holds potable water to a monkey comb, an umbrella leaf (the guides called it natures umbrella and when it started raining we were all greatful to be able to break one off and not get drenched), the material for darts, malaria relief, weaving fibers, and an iodine like substance for cleaning wounds. The girls loved the walking palm tree seeds that the natives use as beads; we found two of them and they were treasured.  There are surely more important discoveries to come from the Amazon flora’s wealth.  Mom took two good diggers on the trails as the many roots snagged our feet.  She got back up each time unscathed.  It’s really hard to look up for animals without getting tripped. 

 We “retraced” our path back to the parked motor boat in the canoes, but honestly I’m not sure I would have been able to find it paddling deep through the forest without any fixed reference land points.  The guides at the prow of each canoe carried machetes that were used repeatedly to remove vines and small branches to allow our passage.  You have to look for ants and wasps before touching any branch or vine or you’ll quickly have unwanted guests in the boat.  In our drive back to ARC we found yet another three-toed sloth, a mother Monk Saki Monkey with its child on its back, and a reclusive Dusky Titi Monkey.

 

Laurie’s family finally caught up with us after missing their connecting flight to Lima in Dallas and having to fly to LAX, wait a day and then catch a red-eye to Lima.  In the afternoon they, with Natali and Kate, went fishing and were fortunate to hear a group of river otters.  Natali caught it on video.  We played that video so many times amazed who they sounded like human babys screaming. They even caught a fish that was added to our dinner menu.

Bode and Hazel joined our afternoon exploration yielded our best views of Common Squirrel Monkeys and another sloth performing a high wire act more than 75 feet off the ground.  After a couple of days my neck and arms were a bit sore from craning up into the trees and holding my near 10 pound camera and lens. I’m fascinated at times just to watch our kids while we traveled in the boat.  The back row was frequented by Lisa as she deferred to the rest of us.  The engine drowned out the words from the spotting guide up front so it was hard to follow everything.  Andrew was hard to dislodge from the front row as he sees it as his right as THE animal lover.  I bounced around in the front two rows to maximize the photo opportunities.  Kate looked disinterested most of the time and I took a coupe of funny pictures of her.  One ride however, Mack and Kate ended up in a long discussion practicing their posture.  The guides arranged for a couple of chairs that sit on top of the benches and provide back support for my mom and Lisa.  Each time in and out of the boat we held our breath that mom wouldn’t fall or hurt her ankles.  After a couple of days she figured out a better way by sitting on the prow and then spinning her feet into the boat rather than climbing up and back down on the unstable boat.

At the conclusion of dinner that night the chef brought out a multi-layered gorgeously frosted birthday cake to celebrate recent birthdays for Harper and Andrew.  We took a short night walk behind the research center and were rewarded with a couple of giant Smoky Jungle Frogs, a Common Opossum, a Red Acouchy, and a Paca which the guide said he hadn’t seen for 2 years.  We paused at one point and turned our headlamps off to experience the utter darkness under the canopy at night.  We could not see our hands in front of our faces or any sign of stars or the moon. Grandma played games with the littles so we could enjoy the walk.  I think I’m falling a bit behind on my sleep.

 Greg wasn't the only one short on sleep.  The little kids had who is sleeping where drama and the big kids stayed up so late talking and laughing together.  We may have lost sleep but the kids were loving the cousin time.  The Parkinson brought a new wave of enthusiasm with them.

To the ARC- Day 2

We were off at 7:00 the next morning heading back downstream in search of active morning birds.  Again we were in luck as we pulled off the dock.  At the very top of the tallest tree next to the lodge our guides pointed out a bright Orange-Backed Troupial.  We quickly checked a dozen birds off the list including mealy parrots, a great black hawk, and ringed kingfishers but the highlights were clearly a group of blue and yellow macaws 

that loudly announced their presence as only they can.  They flew overhead and landed twice where we could take pictures.  

 

After breakfast we were fitted for rubber boots which we would need for any exploration by foot.  We headed back to our rooms to pack up and head to the ARC but Emily wasn’t feeling well.  I sat with her for a while as her stomach pain got worse and worse and the time for us to leave got closer and close.  I left to finish my packing when I heard her start screaming.  I ran and arrived just in time to see her stand up and retch all over the the floor.  We were relieved when she improved almost immediately afterwards.  We left a few bags in our rooms and downsized as we loaded up to journey another 10 km upstream to the Amazonia Expeditions’ Amazon Research Center (ARC).  We were clearly leaving civilization behind as the forest transformed quickly.  The size, variety, and density of the forest increased dramatically and the water continued as far as we could see, in some cases hundreds of yards into the forest.  We passed a lone boat headed downstream and the passenger made excited arm motions above his head.  My mom joked that he was making the moose antler signs but we truly had no idea what he was trying to communicate but our hopes were rising.  Another boat waved us into an inlet and our guides excitedly translated their urgent calls—Red-faced Uakari’s, the most rare of the 15 primate species that inhabit the preserve.  For the next ten minutes we craned our necks to look almost straight up where several Uakari’s traipsed high above us in the canopy. Who designed such a strange looking creature with a bold bald red face set against an orangutan like fur.  What a treat for our first primate of the trip.  While we excitedly watched and took pictures the guide pointed to the side of the boat and called out, “Tamandua!”  We spent 10 minutes alternating between the Uakaris above us and the Tamandua climbing up and over nearby trees.  He was deliberate, but never quite held still as he explored for a breakfast snack.  I was surprised at the Tamandua’s significant size. 

Nani gave all of us llama bandanas, Lily used hers to keep her cool in the heat but dipping it in river and holding it on her face and neck.  The next morning she was shocked to find that it was still wet - gotta love humidity.

Before reaching the ARC we were treated to our first troop of Common Squirrel Monkeys.  These small adorable critters are on the opposite end of the cuteness spectrum from the Uakaris but they stayed back in the thick foliage and seemed unable and uninterested in holding still long enough for a good picture.  The ARC is a bit more primitive than the Tahuayo Lodge but was functional and comfortable other than the oppressive heat.  The shared bathrooms and showers left one a bit more exposed to the mosquitos but the staff and food were at the same high level.  The kids loved the rice and lomo saltado.  Andrew was glad that the “avocado tastes like avocado.”  The bread was a bit tough and dry and was hardly touched but I loved the banana and tuti fruti pancakes and Andrew thought the French toast was the best he’d had.  Watermelon was a refreshing treat every lunch.  We settled in relaxed on the patio chairs before lunch.  I spied a likely Dusky/Copper Titi Monkey from chair but it didn’t stick around long enough for identification.  Lunch was at 1:00 daily and then we headed out for an afternoon excursion further upriver. 

During our lunch break I napped then set behind our house and just enjoyed the sounds while I read.  Natali and I heard one bird over and over and started copying its call.  After a while we had it mastered (it was a simple call😉) and the bird was responding. We thought we were so awesome.  Our pride took a hit later when we learned the bird we were calling to was just a wild chicken.

This time we pulled 3 canoes behind our boat to give us more flexibility to explore beyond the main channel.  The next mammal to be crossed off was the Monk Saki Monkey, another truly unique looking primate with shaggy dark black fur, a long tail that could have passed for a duster, and a weathered gray face that could pass for that of an extra-terrestrial.  After a paddle through the flooded forest we emerged to the main river just in time to watch a shy family of Dusky Titi Monkeys head deeper into the forest.  The last highlight of the morning was a spectacular Paradise Tanager, a small bird with a bright green head, near turquoise breast and under belly, black back and tail with a deep red spot in the middle of the black back.

Canoeing through the flooded forest was may favorite experience of the trip.  I never tired of the peaceful quiet and stillness.  Some of the canoes even spotted our first Capuchin Monkeys (which Greg didn't write about because he and Andrew didn't see them - we may have teased them about it).  Kate's ride wasn't so peaceful or enjoyable becasue she needed to use the restroom.  Grandma eventually managed to tell their guide and he found Kate a discrete spot to take care of business. 

It rained on and off all day long - pouring for a few minutes, cooling things off, then stopping suddenly.  Luckily the rain stopped just long enough for us to go out on the river again. 

As we pulled from the shore they spotted the red eye shine of white or spectacled caiman along flooded shore behind the other boats. We also found a couple of gladiator frogs and a white-bellied mouse opossum on a low tree branch along the river.  A heavy rain cooled things off a bit before bed which was greatly appreciated.  As long as the rain didn’t inhibit our adventures, we appreciated the respite from the sun.  My anti-perspirant mocked me by melting in its container—it seemed to be sweating!  The bugs were unrelenting in the bathrooms at night and after my first visit during the night I chose to relieve myself off the back balcony the next two times.  I can’t believe I had to get out of bed 3 times!  

The rain lasted all night.  Kate and Lily were in their own room but they didn't like being alone so they ended up sharing the extra bed in Natali and Emmy's room.  The rain may have cooled things off but it also attracted the mosquitos.  The bathroom was bad enough that the girls were afraid to use it the rest of our stay.  

Welcome to the Amazon -Day 1

We were met at the small airport in Iquitos by staff from Amazonia Expeditions and transported by private bus across the bustling city of Iquitos to their office on the banks of the Itaya River.  Walking down the airplane steps we were met by the oppressive heat and humidity I had warned the kids about.  It smothered us despite our expecting it.  Iquitos is the largest city in the world that can only be reached by plane or boat—the only road to or from town simply connects it to another smaller remote inaccessible city.  With nearly 500,000 residents the city is densely populated and it wasn’t hard to imagine how 87% (per our guide) of the residents have contracted COVID in the last year.  We filled out some paperwork, picked up a sack lunch, enjoyed the stray cats and loaded into a covered motor boat for the long trip up river.  

The Itaya is a black river whose color is driven by the endless supply of plant matter that leaves an almost perpetual dank scent.  Within a few minutes still within sight of numerous vessels and the shore side city we reached the merger of the black Itaya River with the monstrous brown Amazon.  We stopped to view the distinct line where the colors changed.  While watching the water, our guide Wellister called out, “Dolphin!”  I assumed he was teasing us, but he responded in earnest and seconds later we saw it surface.  The Pink River Dolphins of the Amazon rarely jump out of the water so a typical sighting consists of a few seconds glimpse of the top of the head, back, a fin and if lucky a tail before they disappear again into the murky water.  We could discern no pattern or way to predict when or where it would next surface but did catch a couple more brief sightings before we gave up and continued our journey.   

We were split between two different boats - I had all the girls with me.  We enjoyed the beauty around us and looked for animals as long as we could but eventually we all drifted off to sleep.

While the rainy season had ended a month or more ago, and the water level had dropped 8-10 feet, it obviously had long ways yet to drop as we approached the lodge dock, a story below the main buildings that were all elevated on stilts.  Walkways snaked out in multiple directions from the dining area leading to a hammock room overlooking the river, the kitchen, a working area for the staff, a learning/technology room and of course to our quarters.  Beneath the walkways water remained and numerous visible fish swam in the shallows.  

 

Our kids quickly learned that each evening at 6:00 hot salty popcorn was set out in the dining room to whet our appetite for dinner at 7:00.  All meals were served buffet style with enough options for all courses to satisfy all 13 kids in our party.  We hardly dented the food set out for each meal and I eventually inquired if the staff ate the leftovers.  It turned out that they ate simultaneously with us but the fare from our previous meal.  Our kids made friends with Siomi who helped serve the food.  They never missed a chance to talk or play with her during our stay. 

 

At 8:00 we went out for our first night excursion with Wellister and Fernando taking turns in the front and rear of the boat.  We learned that it was a bit chaotic to have all of our headlamps on at the same time so Welliser and I were the primary spotlighters.  We paused mid-river and turned the engine and lights off to look up at the wonders above us.  The southern sky glowed with stars and we identified new constellations including the Southern Cross.  Later we found a brown-throated three-toed sloth exposed on a tree along the river’s edge.  We identified several nightjars, a few other birds, and a yellow-crowned brush-tailed rat before heading back to call it a day.  

Lily was stung by something in the dark - our first (of many) bug interatctions.  Luckily, the tears and pain didn't last long and we were all able to fall asleep to the sounds of the jungle.

Peru Here We Come

Greg journaled our whole trip so I will just use some of that - my add ins will be in blue.

We left Boise on time with an air freshener in the trunk in hopes that rotten milk smell wouldn’t overwhelm us when we got home (fortunately it didn’t).  While I was on a work trip to Georgia a month back Lisa and Natali miscommunicated and neither of them took the milk out of the van’s trunk.  When I got home at the end of the week they were complaining about the smell in the van.  On Saturday Lily and Emily were supposed to clean it but they said the smell was overwhelming.  Lily was wearing 4 masks and still couldn’t handle it.  Upon investigation I couldn’t avoid the putrid smell but there was no obvious source.  I opened the trunk and laughed and gagged.  There was an unopened two pack of Costco milk still in the cardboard box.  They had expanded and leaked on the trunk’s carpet. 

We had a layover in Houston so I took Emily and Lily out of the airport so they could check Texas off their state list and then met up with Mom at her gate.  While waiting we learned that Laurie’s flight from Salt Lake to Dallas had been delayed a couple of hours and it didn’t look like they would make their connection to Lima.  They ended up spending nearly 24 hours tin LA and then catching a red eye the next night to Lima.  That made our full day of travel on the 28^th seem pretty easy.  

 

Travel in Peru in the time of COVID is not a simple matter.  To exit the plane upon arrival we had to wear face masks and face shields in addition to having a negative COVID test within 72 hours of departure and completing a health affidavit.  Our temperatures were taken as well.  Lily had a bit of a cold and sniffled and coughed on the flight but fortunately didn’t have a fever.  Landing after 11PM, we stood motionless in the immigration line for 30 minutes while we waited for the computer system to come back up.  The next morning to enter the airport we again had to don 2 layers of protective wear, have our temperatures taken and have sanitizer sprayed on our hands and luggage—I’m not really sure how a spray or two on parts of our luggage makes a difference but our luggage was randomly sprayed regularly on the trip.  Another health affidavit was required for each domestic flight and masks and shields had to stay on for the duration of the flight until you exited the airport at which point we just wore masks.  COVID has decimated the country with far too many cases and deaths so you can understand why they take such precaution.  We were fortunate to have been vaccinated in advance so traveled with confidence. 

End of Year Field trips and Graduations

Another year down.  May in all its madness has come and gone.  Field trips, banquets, graduations, mission and trip prep made the time fly.  

 

I accompanied Lily’s class to Babby Farms for a fun morning of animals.  She loved it and I appreciated a chance to mingle with other moms.  I’ve sure missed helping at the school this year.  She and her friend Beth had a blast in our little group, especially petting the kangaroos.

 

 The boys had a belated soccer banquet and Mack received the JV MVP award – an award picked by his teammates.  It made me excited for soccer to start up in the fall.  If there were any other high school awards passed out, I wouldn’t know; Andrew throws away any awards he receives.  

Emily finished 5^th grade with flying colors.  She was the only student in her class that finished the extensive reading list provided by her teacher.  He challenged them to read or reread every book on the list – only a handful of kids have done it in years past.  Emmy was done by March.  She might like to read.

 

Here she is at 5^th grad graduation with some of her buddies this year.  It was bittersweet for me.  I’m excited to see how she enjoys more focused attention in each subject next year but I’m going to miss my two little buddies riding the bus together.  They are such great friends and are always looking out for each other.  I hope that doesn’t change when Emmy moves onto Middle School next year.

Kate had the privilege of being the first Middleton 8^th grade class to have a graduation. She wasn’t so excited about that.  When they called her name, she didn’t even stop in front of the parents for me to take a pic.  So, this is all I have – can you find her?  The highlight was her receiving a kindness award.  A teacher saw her true nature and kind heart and choose her to receive that award.  So sweet.  Hard to believe that next year I'll have three high schoolers and only one lone elementary student.  I’m getting old.