To the ARC- Day 2

We were off at 7:00 the next morning heading back downstream in search of active morning birds.  Again we were in luck as we pulled off the dock.  At the very top of the tallest tree next to the lodge our guides pointed out a bright Orange-Backed Troupial.  We quickly checked a dozen birds off the list including mealy parrots, a great black hawk, and ringed kingfishers but the highlights were clearly a group of blue and yellow macaws 

that loudly announced their presence as only they can.  They flew overhead and landed twice where we could take pictures.  

 

After breakfast we were fitted for rubber boots which we would need for any exploration by foot.  We headed back to our rooms to pack up and head to the ARC but Emily wasn’t feeling well.  I sat with her for a while as her stomach pain got worse and worse and the time for us to leave got closer and close.  I left to finish my packing when I heard her start screaming.  I ran and arrived just in time to see her stand up and retch all over the the floor.  We were relieved when she improved almost immediately afterwards.  We left a few bags in our rooms and downsized as we loaded up to journey another 10 km upstream to the Amazonia Expeditions’ Amazon Research Center (ARC).  We were clearly leaving civilization behind as the forest transformed quickly.  The size, variety, and density of the forest increased dramatically and the water continued as far as we could see, in some cases hundreds of yards into the forest.  We passed a lone boat headed downstream and the passenger made excited arm motions above his head.  My mom joked that he was making the moose antler signs but we truly had no idea what he was trying to communicate but our hopes were rising.  Another boat waved us into an inlet and our guides excitedly translated their urgent calls—Red-faced Uakari’s, the most rare of the 15 primate species that inhabit the preserve.  For the next ten minutes we craned our necks to look almost straight up where several Uakari’s traipsed high above us in the canopy. Who designed such a strange looking creature with a bold bald red face set against an orangutan like fur.  What a treat for our first primate of the trip.  While we excitedly watched and took pictures the guide pointed to the side of the boat and called out, “Tamandua!”  We spent 10 minutes alternating between the Uakaris above us and the Tamandua climbing up and over nearby trees.  He was deliberate, but never quite held still as he explored for a breakfast snack.  I was surprised at the Tamandua’s significant size. 

Nani gave all of us llama bandanas, Lily used hers to keep her cool in the heat but dipping it in river and holding it on her face and neck.  The next morning she was shocked to find that it was still wet - gotta love humidity.

Before reaching the ARC we were treated to our first troop of Common Squirrel Monkeys.  These small adorable critters are on the opposite end of the cuteness spectrum from the Uakaris but they stayed back in the thick foliage and seemed unable and uninterested in holding still long enough for a good picture.  The ARC is a bit more primitive than the Tahuayo Lodge but was functional and comfortable other than the oppressive heat.  The shared bathrooms and showers left one a bit more exposed to the mosquitos but the staff and food were at the same high level.  The kids loved the rice and lomo saltado.  Andrew was glad that the “avocado tastes like avocado.”  The bread was a bit tough and dry and was hardly touched but I loved the banana and tuti fruti pancakes and Andrew thought the French toast was the best he’d had.  Watermelon was a refreshing treat every lunch.  We settled in relaxed on the patio chairs before lunch.  I spied a likely Dusky/Copper Titi Monkey from chair but it didn’t stick around long enough for identification.  Lunch was at 1:00 daily and then we headed out for an afternoon excursion further upriver. 

During our lunch break I napped then set behind our house and just enjoyed the sounds while I read.  Natali and I heard one bird over and over and started copying its call.  After a while we had it mastered (it was a simple call😉) and the bird was responding. We thought we were so awesome.  Our pride took a hit later when we learned the bird we were calling to was just a wild chicken.

This time we pulled 3 canoes behind our boat to give us more flexibility to explore beyond the main channel.  The next mammal to be crossed off was the Monk Saki Monkey, another truly unique looking primate with shaggy dark black fur, a long tail that could have passed for a duster, and a weathered gray face that could pass for that of an extra-terrestrial.  After a paddle through the flooded forest we emerged to the main river just in time to watch a shy family of Dusky Titi Monkeys head deeper into the forest.  The last highlight of the morning was a spectacular Paradise Tanager, a small bird with a bright green head, near turquoise breast and under belly, black back and tail with a deep red spot in the middle of the black back.

Canoeing through the flooded forest was may favorite experience of the trip.  I never tired of the peaceful quiet and stillness.  Some of the canoes even spotted our first Capuchin Monkeys (which Greg didn't write about because he and Andrew didn't see them - we may have teased them about it).  Kate's ride wasn't so peaceful or enjoyable becasue she needed to use the restroom.  Grandma eventually managed to tell their guide and he found Kate a discrete spot to take care of business. 

It rained on and off all day long - pouring for a few minutes, cooling things off, then stopping suddenly.  Luckily the rain stopped just long enough for us to go out on the river again. 

As we pulled from the shore they spotted the red eye shine of white or spectacled caiman along flooded shore behind the other boats. We also found a couple of gladiator frogs and a white-bellied mouse opossum on a low tree branch along the river.  A heavy rain cooled things off a bit before bed which was greatly appreciated.  As long as the rain didn’t inhibit our adventures, we appreciated the respite from the sun.  My anti-perspirant mocked me by melting in its container—it seemed to be sweating!  The bugs were unrelenting in the bathrooms at night and after my first visit during the night I chose to relieve myself off the back balcony the next two times.  I can’t believe I had to get out of bed 3 times!  

The rain lasted all night.  Kate and Lily were in their own room but they didn't like being alone so they ended up sharing the extra bed in Natali and Emmy's room.  The rain may have cooled things off but it also attracted the mosquitos.  The bathroom was bad enough that the girls were afraid to use it the rest of our stay.